Where to drink in Naples, from wine bars to the best place for a negroni


These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic.

Much of the nightlife in Naple’s centro storico revolves in and around the network of narrow lanes near Piazza Bellini that fill with a boho student-y crowd from aperitivo time on. The bars here tend to be tiny, so punters spill out onto the streets clutching plastic cups of wine and cheap cocktails. Then there are the centri sociali (social centres), which are run by community organisations, students and pensioners with events often involving food and wine. Each centre has its own character; some are heavily political while others are more focused around theatre and music.

By contrast, the upmarket neighbourhood of Chiaia is popular with a more sophisticated clientele who make for the barretti (the network of pretty cobbled streets) for a crawl among some of the best bars – and cocktails – in the city.

Centro Storico


This relative newcomer, decorated with bright, splashy murals and popular with a young, hip crowd, has a brilliant selection of international natural and organic wines and craft beer, with several beers on tap. Opened by a couple of friends (one Italian, the other English), it is a laid-back, unpretentious place and the long, shared table where customers play board games and chat over drinks means that it’s a good place for solo travellers. The drinks and food menus change regularly with specials chalked up on a blackboard; snacks include cheese or charcuterie platters plus the likes of avocado toast with smoked salmon.

Contact: 00 39 349 715 5270;
Nearest metro: Dante
Prices: £-££

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