These are unusual times, and the state of affairs can change quickly. Please check the latest travel guidance before making your journey. Note that our writer visited pre-pandemic.
There are dozens of public beaches on the island, ranging in size from small to sweeping, with most of the more popular located on the southern coast. And where once you could just throw your towel down on the sand and seek shade under a tree, many have evolved to offer a range of slick facilities, mainly involving hiring out sun-loungers and umbrellas, with day rates varying wildly between them. Many are now also fringed with luxury hotels and villas, and feature chic beach clubs and restaurants where the action doesn’t stop just because the sun goes down. Take your pick.
This is certainly the best known, and one of the most popular, thanks to its laid-back feel and picturesque setting. Located on the island’s southern coast – which can get buffeted by its famous winds, or ‘meltemia’ – it’s a lengthy sweep of gravelly sand, fringed by clear, turquoise water. Behind the sea is a campsite, established in 1969, and other facilities include a reasonably priced cafeteria, and a couple of beach bars. Loungers and umbrellas can be hired for a fee, starting this season from €7 (£6); the amount tends to creep up every year. Set back from the beach is the Paradise Beach Club (00 30 6973 016311), which has a quieter pool bar, and a more raucous ground-level one. The music gets progressively louder as the day goes on, culminating in the live DJ whipping the crowd into a frenzy.